![]() This allows for richer flavor and texture that gets closer to imitating animal milk dairy. Nuts were a game-changer for vegan cheese because they provide a lot of fat: 100 grams of cashews have 44 grams of fat, versus 6.4 grams of fat in the same amount of soybeans. From this moment on, quality vegan cheese went mainstream, presenting a true challenge to the hyper-processed oil-and-starch “cheeses” that had previously dominated grocery store aisles. Kite Hill, founded by chef Tal Ronnen, launched in 2015 at Whole Foods Market with almond milk as the base. She launched Miyoko’s Creamery in 2014, selling wheels of fermented cashew cheese in a range of flavors. In 2012, Schinner herself put out the book “Artisan Vegan Cheese,” setting off a new boom of possibility focused on culturing with rejuvelac, a fermented wheat berry beverage that had also come out of the raw food movement. Cow introduced nut-based wheels of cheese and a tangy cream cheese that brought an artisanal touch that could compare to small-batch dairy cheeses. Schinner doesn’t recall precisely where she got the idea to use cashews for vegan dairy, possibly from raw foodists who had already been seeing the possibilities in transforming nuts and seeds without the application of heat. But it was the realization that there were usable ingredients beyond soy that galvanized the possibilities of full-scale vegan dairy. Tofu-based vegan cheeses had existed for centuries in China, and the first soy dairy had been established at the turn of the 20th century in Paris by an anarchist named Li Yu-Ying. The initial recipes were rudimentary, but they were also a leap forward. Yet it set the course for a modern approach to vegan dairy that we now can take for granted, like using nuts and coconut as bases for mayonnaise, cream sauce, sour cream, ice cream, and creme fraiche. This book was as niche as niche could get. The book was put out by the publishing arm of The Farm, a commune in Tennessee that was established in 1971 and has championed a vegan diet ever since. When Miyoko Schinner, of Miyoko’s Creamery, published “The Now and Zen Epicure” in 1991, it would have been hard to imagine that 30 years into the future, her name would be appearing on tubs of vegan cheese, boxes of vegan butter and bottles of “liquid vegan mozzarella” at more than 30,000 stores across the United States, as well as in Canada, South Africa, Hong Kong and Singapore.
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